Size Charts
Featuring TWO Separately Drafted Size Ranges and Cup Sizes A-G/H!
Marian: Sizes 0-16, Sewing Cup Sizes A-G/H
Guinevere (Plus-Size Friendly): Sizes 14-32, Sewing Cup Sizes A-G/H
JMD Patterns for both Guinevere and Marian are drafted for a 5’6” (167.6cm) height. Shorten/lenthen lines, instructions on grading between sizes, and a Fitting Guide are included with most JMD patterns.
How to Choose a Size
1) Start with the High Bust measurement.
2) Choose a cup size based on your Full Bust measurement.
3) Finally, waist, hips, and bicep measurements can be graded between sizes if needed for a customized fit.
Which Size Range to Choose for Sizes 14-16
Marian and Guinevere’s blocks are fitted to their dress forms, which produce two separate patterns. Sizes 14-16 will have different measurements and proportions depending on the size range.
For best fit, JMD recommends choosing the size range where most of your measurements will lie. (Ie. if the High Bust is size 14, Cup size G/H, Waist is size 18, Hips are size 20, the Guinevere size range will be the best fit). If your measurements lie solely within the size 14-16 range, JMD recommends taking a look at the dress forms and seeing which body type and proportions would fit you best.
How to Take Measurements
Bust Measurements (For mobile view, the accompanying illustration will be found further below by the size charts)
High Bust: This measurement is taken without a bra
Full Bust: This measurement is taken with a bra (preferably one that’ll be worn with the finished garment)
What if my full bust measurement is not listed under my high bust measurement?
A full bust adjustment (FBA) or small bust adjustment (SBA) may be needed. Instructions are included in the Fitting Guide. In order for the shoulders to fit correctly, it’s strongly recommended to make this adjustment rather than sizing up or down.
What if my high bust measurement is larger than my full bust or I’m in between sizes?
If your high bust is larger than your full bust, select an A cup size based on your high bust measurement and make a mockup to see if an FBA is needed. If you’re in between any size (not just the bust), refer to the pattern’s Finished Garment Measurement Chart to see if you should size up or down.
What size should I choose with a bilateral mastectomy?
There are several fitting adjustments available for those sewing with bilateral mastectomies in mind. One suggestion is to substitute the chest measurement for the high bust measurement and to remove the darts through the SBA process. An SBA can also be used if darts are desired. Afterwards, other fit adjustments can be made, such as wide or narrow shoulder adjustments or raising the neckline if needed. (These adjustments are all included in the Fitting Guide).
Standing vs. Sitting Measurements for Hips and Waist
Body measurements change when sitting or standing. For fitted garments without a lot of room for movement, it’s best to measure the hips and waist while sitting. For looser garments with a greater amount of ease, these measurements should be taken while standing.
Bicep
This measurement is taken at the widest part of the upper arm. JMD patterns offer both a standard and full bicep option. This measurement can also be graded between sizes, and if a further small/full bicep adjustment is needed, instructions can be found in the Fitting Guide.
Making a Toile/Mockup
As all bodies are unique, most people will find that they need to make some adjustments to a sewing pattern to achieve the best fit. A Fitting Guide is included at the end of the instruction booklet to help with common adjustments. A toile, muslin, or mockup is typically made of cheap fabric to perfect the fit before cutting into the fashion fabric. While the mockup material doesn’t have to possess the same fiber content as the fashion fabric, it’s important that it possesses a similar weight and drape. Additionally, a knit material should be used for knits while a woven fabric should be used for wovens. Once these guidelines are met, any type of affordable fabric can be used! Thrifted sheets, op-shop fabrics, and bargain bin finds all work well.
Pattern Combinations and Grading
Many JMD patterns are designed with interchangeable pieces in mind, such as the sleeves, bodice, and skirts. Unless otherwise mentioned, the grading is compatible for interchangeable patterns.
What are some of the types of adjustments found in the Fitting Guides?
(This list is subject to change and individual fitting guides may vary)
Bust Adjustments
Moving Bust Apex and Darts, Truing Darts, Full Bust Adjustment (FBA), Small Bust Adjustment (SBA), Removing Darts (SBA)
Shoulder Adjustments
Wide Shoulder Adjustment, Narrow Shoulder Adjustment
Bicep Adjustments
Grading Between Bicep Sizes, Full Bicep Adjustment, Small Bicep Adjustment
Back and Neckline Adjustments
Swayback Adjustment, Broad and Narrow Back Adjustments, Adjusting Neckline Height
